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Storm Damage Cleanup

Updated November 6, 2026

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Safety

Treat every storm-damaged property as hazardous until it has been inspected. Stay at least 30 feet away from downed or sagging power lines and report them to the utility. Never enter standing water that may be energized or hide sharp debris, and shut off electricity to affected areas at the breaker only if the panel is dry and reachable without stepping through water. If a gas odor is present, leave immediately and notify the gas utility from a safe distance. Wear sturdy boots, gloves, and eye protection when moving debris, and avoid entering rooms with sagging ceilings, cracked load-bearing walls, or a shifted foundation. Do not climb onto a slick or damaged roof.

Before the visit

Before help arrives, photograph and video all damage from safe vantage points for insurance documentation, and keep damaged items in place until an adjuster or technician has seen them. Locate the insurance policy and claim phone number, clear a path to the damaged areas, move vehicles out of driveways so equipment can be unloaded, and secure pets indoors. Make a written list of affected rooms and items, note whether power, gas, or water has been shut off, and set aside tarps, buckets, or plywood if they are already on hand. Keep children and anyone with respiratory issues away from damp or moldy areas.

Repair vs replace

Repair is usually appropriate when the structure is sound and the damage is limited to individual components, such as a few missing shingles, torn flashing, cracked siding panels, broken window glass, detached gutters, or a section of fence. Minor water intrusion that has been caught within a day or two, with dry insulation and no mold growth, can often be resolved by drying, patching, and resealing. A technician can assess whether the underlying framing, decking, or wiring is intact before recommending a repair.

When to replace

Replacement is typically the safer route when materials are saturated, warped, or structurally compromised, such as large roof sections with exposed decking, swollen or crumbling drywall, insulation that has been soaked for more than a couple of days, windows with damaged frames, or fencing with rotted or snapped posts. Repeated leaks, visible mold inside wall cavities, and any sign that roof or floor framing has shifted also point toward replacement rather than patching. A technician can help compare the long-term cost of repeated repairs against full replacement.

Common issues

SymptomLikely causesSafe checkStop when
Missing, curled, or lifted roof shingles after high wind or hailWind uplift, hail impact, flying debris, or an aging roof that had already lost granules and flexibilityStay on the ground and inspect with binoculars from several angles, then look in the attic with a flashlight for daylight, water stains, or damp insulationWater is dripping near light fixtures or the electrical panel, the roof deck sags, or large sections of underlayment are exposed to ongoing rain
Tree limbs resting on the roof, siding, or a vehicleSaturated soil that weakened roots, strong gusts, dead or split wood, or overgrown branches near the structureObserve from a distance for creaking, shifting, or hanging branches, and check whether any limb is touching or leaning toward a power lineA limb is in contact with or close to power lines, or the structure makes popping sounds or visibly shifts
Ceiling stains, bulging drywall, or active drips after rainWind-driven rain through damaged flashing or shingles, a punctured roof membrane, or clogged gutters backing water under the roof edgeTrace the stain edge with a pencil and monitor whether it grows over the next day, and check the attic above for damp insulationThe ceiling bulges or sags, drips reach electrical fixtures, or drywall begins to crumble and fall
Broken windows, cracked glass, or punctured sidingWindborne debris, hail, falling branches, or pressure changes that flexed older panesFrom inside, cover cracks with plastic sheeting or plywood rather than tape alone, and clear glass from a standing position while wearing closed-toe shoesThe frame is cracked or pulling away so the pane could fall, glass sits overhead in a transom or storm door, or wind is still strong enough to send more debris
Standing water in a basement, crawlspace, or garageSump pump power loss, overwhelmed floor drains, foundation seepage from saturated soil, or a burst outdoor lineShut off power to the flooded area at the breaker before entering, and never wade in water that is near outlets, appliances, or the panelWater is within a few feet of electrical components, the panel itself is damp, or the water level is rising
Detached gutters, downspouts, or sections of fenceWind load on loose fasteners, impact from debris, or heaving and saturated ground around fence postsLook up before walking under hanging gutters, check for exposed nails and sharp metal edges, and test fence posts by pushing gently at a corner rather than the middleMetal is tangled with or near electrical service lines, or heavy sections hang over doors and walkways
Gas odor, hissing sounds, or dead vegetation in a line near the meterShifted or broken piping from debris impact, uprooted trees pulling on service lines, or damaged appliance connectionsLeave the building immediately, and only close the exterior meter valve if it can be reached without passing through the odor area; call the gas utility from outside or a neighbor's phoneAny gas smell is present at all, since evacuation and a call to the utility or emergency services take priority over cleanup
Overflowing gutters, pooling near the foundation, or water in window wellsDownspouts clogged with leaves, shingle grit, and storm debris, crushed drain lines, or grading that now slopes toward the houseRun a garden hose at the far end of the gutter line and watch where water exits, then note any pooling within several feet of the foundationWater flows toward or into window wells, seeps through the slab, or the ground around the foundation is visibly eroding